Lime - Test the soil, and apply lime if the soil PH is below 6.5. Once the PH is corrected to 7, lime is usually needed only every 2nd or 3rd year.

Wood Chips and Bark Mulch - Put a large mulched circle over the roots, but do not mound bark mulch up around the trunk of trees. Trees and shrubs grown under mulch develop stronger roots and are healthier. However, mulch should be no more than 2-3 inches total or plant health can suffer. Check depth before adding more mulch. Many times a raking and a thin top dressing of new chips will look great and save you the cost of additional mulch.

Transplanting - Most transplant death is the result of too little, too much or erratic watering. Check the soil moisture by digging a hole 6 inches deep and feeling it. If it's cool and moist, wait. If it's dry, soak the plant. To check quickly, plunge a trowel into the soil and bend it back. See below for more tips on watering.

THE GOLDEN RULE: CHECK FOR MOISTURE BEFORE YOU WATER!

Until the root system is established – which is usually one full year – you should check the soil for moisture to accurately determine how dry or wet it is. This can be done by using a moisture meter or by pulling back the mulch and feeling the soil with your hands along side the rootball about four inches below ground level.
During the spring and fall, you should check the soil moisture approximately every 3-5 days. During the hot and dry summer months, this should be done every 2-3 days for smaller plants and every 3-5 days for larger plants and trees. If the soil is dry, water thoroughly until the entire root ball and surrounding soil is wet again. If it is moist, do not water and check the soil in another few days. The object of watering is to find that “happy medium” – neither too wet nor too dry. Learn how long it takes your particular soil to dry slightly between waterings. You should not water a plant unless it needs water! Be aware that both too little water (top moist and bottom dry) and too much water (constant saturation) can be fatal.

• It is very important to water trees and shrubs thoroughly as needed during the summer months and in the late fall (November/December) before the onset of winter.

• Summer thunderstorms can provide some helpful moisture, but should not be considered a substitute for deep watering.

• Large trees can take several years to become established in the landscape. Additional watering is necessary during dry spells and summer droughts. This is especially important during the first few years to keep your trees healthy and vigorous.

• Plants that are growing in shady conditions caused by large trees can dry out more quickly because of the competition for moisture from the large tree roots.

• Wilted leaves can result from the soil being either too dry or too wet. Be sure to feel the soil to determine which scenario may be happening before watering.

• Bedding plants, hanging baskets and potted plants may need to be watered daily during the summer months. To help with this task, water-grabbing polymers such as Soil Moist can be used for these plants to reduce the frequency of watering. These polymers absorb the excess water that typically drains through the pot, holds it in a jell form and releases it to the roots when needed.