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Community Landscaping Services

• Commercial Grounds Management   • Debris Removal   • Deck Staining   • Drainage   • Driveways   • Edging   • Fertilizing   • General Cleanups   • Installation   • Landscape Design / Build   • Leaf Removal   • Mulching   • Organic Fertilizing   • Patios & Walkways   • Power Washing   • Residential Seasonal Maintenance   • Retaining Walls   • Seasonal Mowing   • Seeding   • Sodding   • Stack Stone Walls   • Tilling   • Trimming and Pruning   • Watering   • Weed Control

Click Here to see our landscape CARE TIPS.

Flagstone Patio Installed in Mt. Vernon section of Alexandria, VA	Paver Walkway Installed in Rosemont section of Alexandria, VA
Paver Patio Installed in Rosemont section of Alexandria, VA	Irregular Flagstone Walkway Del Ray section of Alexandria, VA

We offer FREE ESTIMATES. We welcome jobs of all sizes and look forward to having you as another satisfied customer. Please don't hesitate to call us to discuss your needs and to make an appointment.

Concrete Block Retaining Wall Installed in the Warwick Village section of Alexandria, VA

Flagstone Patio and Concrete Block Retaining Wall Installed in McLean, VA

Stepping Stone Path Installed in Kingstown, VA

Flagstone Capped Steps Installed in Falls Church, VA

Rustic Curved Brick Walkway Installed in Del Ray section of Alexandria, VA

Flagstone Patio Installed in Arlington, VA

CARE TIPS

New Trees - Water regularly (once a week) during the first season, with l0 gallons of water - more for large trees. Pour the water down the trunks so it goes into the root ball, not along the top of the ground. In addition, whenever the leaves droop down or it is very hot, water again and spray the tops with the hose. Do not fertilize the first year except for shrubs as described below. See below for a more extensive discussion of watering.

New Shrubs - Water once a week the first summer with 5 to l0 gallons of water for each depending on the size of the bush. Take care to get the water under any mulch, which absorbs a great deal of moisture and robs the soil below. Pour water right down the stems so it goes into the root ball, and does not run off on the ground. During very hot sunny days, spray the tops and water lightly in addition to the weekly deep watering. Do not fertilize the first year, except possibly for half strength liquid fertilizer at planting time, or one could use plant rooting hormone additives. Fertilize normally the second year in the spring. See below for more tips on watering.

New Sod or Seed - If installed during summer: water daily for the first three weeks. Thereafter, water twice weekly for a few weeks. Finally, water once a week with one full inch (1") of water during the season. When the weather is very hot or very dry, return to the twice weekly schedule. See below for more tips on watering.

If Installed During Spring Or Fall - Water daily but don't let it remain soggy and soft. If cool and rainy, water two or three times weekly, until the grass is established, which takes about 2 to 3 weeks. Set the sprinkler to this schedule... do not water daily after the grass is established. Stop watering in early October. See below for more tips on watering.

If Installed in Shade – Watering schedule stays the same as above but a few additional steps are needed. Thinning out large trees and pruning overhanging tree limbs will help to allow more sunlight to reach the ground. Mow at a minimum height of 2-1/2 to 3 inches, removing no more than the top one-third of the grass blades. Most heavily shaded grass grows more upright and stringy to increase the leaf surface and capture any available sunlight. Cutting at a greater than normal height allows this to continue. Letting grass grow to the taller end of its range establishes deeper roots and better resistance to weeds and drought. As fragile as shaded grass plants are, it doesn’t take much to tear out their shallow root systems or otherwise damage the plants beyond their ability to recover. Limiting heavy use enables the grass to handle other stresses better. See below for more tips on watering.

Fertilize in the spring and around Labor Day with 10-6-4 or equal. For a lusher, greener lawn, fertilize a third time in late June.

Below are several 6x6 pressure treated timber retaining walls (retaining walls can be used formany different applications including leveling a sloped yard, fixing difficult drainage issues, creating an enjoyable seating area or play area for children)

Lime - Test the soil, and apply lime if the soil PH is below 6.5. Once the PH is corrected to 7, lime is usually needed only every 2nd or 3rd year.

Wood Chips and Bark Mulch - Put a large mulched circle over the roots, but do not mound bark mulch up around the trunk of trees. Trees and shrubs grown under mulch develop stronger roots and are healthier. However, mulch should be no more than 2-3 inches total or plant health can suffer. Check depth before adding more mulch. Many times a raking and a thin top dressing of new chips will look great and save you the cost of additional mulch.

Transplanting - Most transplant death is the result of too little, too much or erratic watering. Check the soil moisture by digging a hole 6 inches deep and feeling it. If it's cool and moist, wait. If it's dry, soak the plant. To check quickly, plunge a trowel into the soil and bend it back. See below for more tips on watering.

THE GOLDEN RULE: CHECK FOR MOISTURE BEFORE YOU WATER!

Until the root system is established – which is usually one full year – you should check the soil for moisture to accurately determine how dry or wet it is. This can be done by using a moisture meter or by pulling back the mulch and feeling the soil with your hands along side the rootball about four inches below ground level.
During the spring and fall, you should check the soil moisture approximately every 3-5 days. During the hot and dry summer months, this should be done every 2-3 days for smaller plants and every 3-5 days for larger plants and trees. If the soil is dry, water thoroughly until the entire root ball and surrounding soil is wet again. If it is moist, do not water and check the soil in another few days. The object of watering is to find that “happy medium” – neither too wet nor too dry. Learn how long it takes your particular soil to dry slightly between waterings. You should not water a plant unless it needs water! Be aware that both too little water (top moist and bottom dry) and too much water (constant saturation) can be fatal.

Tips on Watering:

• Remember that container grown plants tend to dry out more quickly than "balled and burlapped" plants. During periods of dry weather, use a watering wand to soak the root ball as needed. • It is very important to water trees and shrubs thoroughly as needed during the summer months and in the late fall (November/December) before the onset of winter. • Summer thunderstorms can provide some helpful moisture, but should not be considered a substitute for deep watering. • Large trees can take several years to become established in the landscape. Additional watering is necessary during dry spells and summer droughts. This is especially important during the first few years to keep your trees healthy and vigorous. • Plants that are growing in shady conditions caused by large trees can dry out more quickly because of the competition for moisture from the large tree roots. • Wilted leaves can result from the soil being either too dry or too wet. Be sure to feel the soil to determine which scenario may be happening before watering. • Bedding plants, hanging baskets and potted plants may need to be watered daily during the summer months. To help with this task, water-grabbing polymers such as Soil Moist can be used for these plants to reduce the frequency of watering. These polymers absorb the excess water that typically drains through the pot, holds it in a jell form and releases it to the roots when needed.